This season's Fendi Couture continues the conversation between lyricism and reality.
Moving beyond the concept of garments, the designs embrace pragmatism and are a fusion of skills ranging from embroidery artisans, tailors, pattern cutting craftsmen, leather craftsmen, costume makers, to fur processors, all from Fendi's atelier.
Fendi's approach to the individuals wearing couture is to reaffirm their humanity, not as 'objects' but as 'people'.
From simple structures to the primal power of crocodile, 'humanistic futurism' permeates the entire collection as a theme, combining unchanging elements of the past to sketch the present and the future. Now, structure becomes ornamentation, and ornamentation becomes structure.
Fendi Couture and Women's Artistic Director, Kim Jones, shares this: “I envisioned Karl Lagerfeld's spirit of future orientation with Fendi. This collection showcases the future centered on humanism through the body of a person, silhouettes within silhouettes, humanity itself, and handmade couture designs. The theme of the collection is structure and ornamentation, both elements being inseparable from each other. With this collection, I wanted to encompass both precision and emotion.”
This season's newly introduced 'Scatola' silhouette, a word meaning 'box', begins the collection with its precise and geometric pattern cutting, concluding similarly with the elegant flu style. The collection is characterized by a new volume created using fabrics like silk gazar, highlighting both lightness and structure. The cuts of the attire, meticulously following the female form, wrap the body in an ergonomic design, employing traditionally masculine tailoring fabrics like super kid mohair.The collection features luxurious rib knit dresses made from premium cashmere and vicuña yarn, elegantly completed with a 'Shibari' harness detailed with perfect knots that blend seamlessly with the silhouette. Flexible crocodile materials shine across various products in the collection, from clothing to accessories, captivating attention with their unique charm.Each style, inspired by dancewear, charmingly embodies the concepts of lightness, fluidity, and movement.[Provided by Fendi]
However, what truly evokes the sense of encountering the beauty of the future are the numerous embroideries, completed after intense work, and the harmony of their decoration and structure. The most astonishing aspect is how the embroidery connects and separates the DNA of the natural and artificial worlds.
For instance, the new form of all-over fringe, finished like feather shapes, feels like a different kind of felt material. The handcrafted, intricate, and delicate embroidery creates organic shapes, lightness, and a flowing elegance, moving gracefully with the wearer's movements.
The fine jewelry presented in this collection is an extension and connection of the 'couture ensemble' idea from the past season, showcasing a realm of precious yet practical objects.